Praiseworthy Pomerol
Pomerol produces some of the most valued wines in Bordeaux, in France, and the world with high prices to reflect a faithful cult following. The diverse combination of gravel, sand, clay and limestone are conducive to growing Merlot with incomparable aromatic richness, colour, suppleness and crispness.
Like neighbouring St-Émilion, Pomerol is a very small plateau featuring unique geological characteristics of gravel and sandy topsoils with subsoils of swelling clay, sometimes with iron oxide (the famous blue clay believed to have formed 40-million-years ago). Clay retains water, which means the plants have a regular supply of hydration and nutrients.
Another contributing factor to Pomerol's success is that the farms are small, averaging around 10 ha, and the production is even smaller to create enormous demand for collectors. Petrus comprises hardly 12 ha and Le Pin produces only 500 cases per year on 4.5 ha. The 2015 and 2016 vintages of Petrus can command retail prices of over $3,000 per bottle. For comparison, Lafite Rothschild in nearby Pauillac produces approximately 35,000 cases on 107 ha.
James Suckling says “The best of Pomerol continue to be the benchmarks in the fine wine world at large”, and Master of Wine Jancis Robinson describes them this way: “Pomerols are velvety, rich, Merlot-based wines which can smell almost meaty and can give an enormous amount of pleasure.”
Château Nénin
Château Nénin's vineyards grow on the great terroirs of the Pomerol plateau and are the epitome of a "vin de garde" (wine for laying down). It combines power and elegance, complexity and balance, purity and refinement. The gradual increase of Cabernet Franc within the vineyards gives the wine tautness, distinction and fresh aromatics. To really appreciate the aging ability, you may need to be patient because like all great Pomerol, they blossom over time.
A total transformation of the property began in 1997 when Jean-Hubert Delon, owner of Léoville Las Cases, Clos du Marquis and Potensac, purchased château Nénin. A new vat room was installed, furnished with state-of-the-art equipment, the aging and storage cellars were renovated, as well numerous updates to the house itself. The pruning and trellising methods were reviewed and improved, the land was drained, the vines were replanted or uprooted, and the equipment modernized.
Fugue de Nenin 2012 Pomerol
82% Merlot 18% Cabernet Franc
$104.99 per bottle
The name is a reference to music; it means a repetition of the main theme. This name makes sense when you taste the wine - Fugue complements the tonalities of its sibling wines extremely well while providing its own attractive and entertaining rendition. It's smooth and silky and can be enjoyed now with ample decanting, or capable of aging for another 5-10 years.
The vines are grown on a single plot of sandy-clay soils on the great plateau. This wine is really about balance rather than power. Ample decanting evokes soft cherry, fresh plum, earth and savory baking spice with a seemingly neverending finish.
Pomerol produced spectacular wine in 2012 and is widely considered the best commune in all of Bordeaux for this vintage. Characterized by a slow, late growth cycle due to a very cool and wet spring. The budburst was spread out over time and created a variation in the stages of development that was to be partially evened out by the dry, sunny period that began in mid-July. The colour change and ripening occurred in ideal weather conditions that continued through to harvest time.